His Estate Has 3 Swimming Pools and a Stable. He Says He’s Not Rich.

AL KHOR, Qatar — Every afternoon, Muhammad Al Misned leaves his office in Doha, the Qatari capital, jumps into his white land cruiser and drives to his second home in the desert. There, behind a castle-like facade, is his sanctuary — with three swimming pools, two soccer fields, a bowling alley, a stable, a volleyball court and one carefully manicured hedge maze, among other luxuries.

The daily visit to his estate, in the northern town of Al Khor, has offered him much-needed respite since the men’s soccer World Cup turned Qatar into an exhausting, round-the-clock carnival, he told me. Once the tournament is over, he plans to recuperate in London, where he’ll hire a personal trainer to work out and eat every meal with him, lest he ingest too many calories. But like his desert home, this is all — Mr. Al Misned said — quite normal.

“I’m not a rich person,” he explained.

Only a generation ago in Qatar, this nonchalance toward obvious markers of wealth would have been unimaginable.

The entrance to the desert home of Mr. Al Misned.

For much of the 20th century, the country was little more than a barren desert of fishermen and pearl divers who made their living off the salty water of the Persian Gulf. But the discovery of gas fields off its northern shore in the 1970s — and the resulting energy boom — reversed the country’s fortunes. Qataris now enjoy some of the highest average incomes in the world — along with free health care, free higher education, housing support, cushy government jobs, financial support for newlyweds and generous subsidies.

Much of that personal wealth is hidden in the privacy of Qatari homes, which are rarely opened to outsiders. And it is not shared equally. The country is highly stratified, with approximately two million migrant laborers enlisted to facilitate a luxurious lifestyle for about 380,000 Qatari citizens.

Although the country is only the size of Connecticut, it often seems as if those two worlds could not be further apart: The minimum wage for migrant laborers is $275 a month. By one measure, Qataris’ average annual income is around $115,000.

As one Turkish construction worker in the country put it, there is no such thing as a poor Qatari; there are only the rich, the richer and the richest, he said.

Still. Mr. Al Misned, 57, insists that, by Qatari standards, he is not wealthy.

Mr. Al Misned in his custom gym on his sprawling estate in the desert.

Mr. Al Misned grew up in Al Khor, where his father worked in construction and raised his children in a low-slung mud brick home. By the time Mr. Al Misned was a teenager, the state was flush with gas money and had begun paying for its brightest students to attend universities abroad — a policy designed to cultivate a class of English-speaking Qataris able to effortlessly interact with Western investors.

A Brief Guide to the 2022 World Cup

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What is the World Cup? The quadrennial event pits the best national soccer teams against each other for the title of world champion. Here’s a primer to the 2022 men’s tournament:

Where is it being held? This year’s host is Qatar, which in 2010 beat the United States and Japan to win the right to hold the tournament. Whether that was an honest competition remains in dispute.

When is it? The tournament opened on Nov. 20, when Qatar played Ecuador. Over the two weeks that follow, four games will be played on most days. The tournament ends with the final on Dec. 18.

Is a winter World Cup normal? No. The World Cup usually takes place in July. But in 2015, FIFA concluded that the summer temperatures in Qatar might have unpleasant consequences and agreed to move the tournament to the relatively bearable months of November and December.

How many teams are competing? Thirty-two. Qatar qualified automatically as the host, and after years of matches, the other 31 teams earned the right to come and play. Meet the teams here.

How does the tournament work? The 32 teams are divided into eight groups of four. In the opening stage, each team plays all the other teams in its group once. The top two finishers in each group advance to the round of 16. After that, the World Cup is a straight knockout tournament.

How can I watch the World Cup in the U.S.? The tournament will be broadcast on Fox and FS1 in English, and on Telemundo in Spanish. You can livestream it on Peacock, or on streaming services that carry Fox and FS1. Here’s how to watch every match.

When will the games take place? Qatar is three hours ahead of London, eight hours ahead of New York and 11 hours ahead of Los Angeles. That means there will be predawn kickoffs on the East Coast of the United States for some games, and midafternoon starts for 10 p.m. games in Qatar.

Got more questions? We’ve got more answers here.

Mr. Al Misned attended university in Colorado, and now owns his own consultancy firm with investments in construction projects across Qatar, England and the United States.

His desert home is about an hour’s drive from Doha through a desolate stretch where beige earth melds with a washed-out sky. The journey ends at a palatial gate, manned by a guard, who, on a recent visit, swung open the gate to reveal a lush, green landscape divided by narrow roads lined with palm trees.

Mr. Al Misned welcomed a photographer and me at one of the houses on the property, and then drove us on a tour of the estate, which also includes a shisha lounge and a gym.

Spread across the property were1,000 sheep, eight Arabian oryx, four horses, two camels and one falcon — what Mr. Al Misned called his working farm — cultivated over the past decade.

Workers on the grounds of the estate. Roughly two million migrant laborers are enlisted to facilitate a luxurious lifestyle for roughly 380,000 Qatari citizens.

He was, though, not much of a falcon guy, he explained as the bird of prey perched on his arm. His friend — who is a falcon guy — had given the animal to him as a gift earlier this year.

“I said once, if I make money, I want to have a farm and I want to build myself a hotel to live in,” he said. “So if you go to Doha, my house is like a small hotel actually.”

At one point between the stable and gym, Mr. Al Misned veered off the road and across a pristine stretch of lawn to show us one of several guesthouses. As we pulled away, he greeted several groundskeepers from South Asia and East Africa, planting fresh patches of sod.

“The minute you say, ‘salaam alaikum’ — ‘hello,’ you know — you give them a lot. They just feel respected,” Mr. Al Misned said, driving back across the yard.

The workers were part of the influx of migrants who have reshaped Qatar’s population in recent decades — and who often have to deal with arrogant bosses and, sometimes, abuse. The treatment of those who built the infrastructure for the World Cup drew widespread criticism before the tournament, and has been a point of controversy throughout the games.

Mr. Al Misned praying with estate staff members.

The opulent estate seemed like an apt reflection of Mr. Al Misned’s generation, many of whom grew up with little to no electricity and now drive luxury cars. The stark reversal of fortune seemed to breed a fear of fleetingness, as if wealth could vanish as quickly as it had appeared — so they must spend money, and spend it lavishly, while it lasts.

Later that afternoon, Mr. Al Misned’s wife, Alanood; their daughters; and female relatives gathered in the main clubhouse to watch the Qatar vs. Senegal soccer match. In keeping with Qatari custom, the men vacated the area.

The women lounged on sofas in front of a large television, their kicked-off four-inch stilettos scattered across the floor. The girls wore deep purple Qatari jerseys and skinny jeans.

When Qatari strikerswove through Senegal’s defense,the women erupted in cheers — “We want a goal! We want a goal!” — and pounded on traditional drums, laughing.

Every few minutes, staff members wearing purple dresses and white cotton gloves made the rounds with trays brimming with bowls of sweets, cappuccinos in gold-rimmed cups and a pot of Arabic coffee. One passed by with a bouquet of flowers so large that I could see only the legs of the housekeeper carrying it.

Celebrating the World Cup.
Serving Arabic coffee.

During halftime, Alanood — who has a different last name from her husband and asked that only her first name be used out of privacy concerns — and her guestsstepped outside for a jaunt around the property in golf carts. Most of the women were uneasy drivers, accustomed to being driven by their chauffeurs, so I took the wheel of my cart. As we zoomed among palm trees wrapped in shimmering lights, they sang wedding songs.

Returning to the clubhouse, Alanood told me that she and her family had attended the opening game of the World Cup, when Qatar played Ecuador. But they left at halftime, disappointed by both Qatar’s defeat and the fans. Qatari men in the stadiums wore thobes, the traditional dress, instead of soccer jerseys, and there was no screaming, no arm flailing, no electricity in the crowd — which she had expected after the hype for the world’s largest sporting event.

“Everyone knows everyone, so they don’t want to embarrass themselves,” her teenage daughter explained.

I asked Alanood whether she had visited Doha’s souk — now packed with crowds of foreign fans — or any of the music festivals or carnivals the country had put on for the tournament.

“I cannot,” she said firmly. “There are TV crews there and, you know, you don’t know who might take a photo of you.”

Getting ready for a dinner after the Qatar vs. Senegal soccer match.

“I like my privacy,” she added.

That was a refrain I’d long heard from Qatari friends. They often said that despite Qatar’s conservative reputation and low-key vibes among the few bars in Doha, anything went in the privacy of Qataris homes — and that they liked that privacy. With the start of the tournament, it was as if the country had been turned inside out, with revelry long contained to the home suddenly playing out on the street, though mostly among foreign visitors.

When the game against Senegal ended (Qatar lost, again), the women sat down for a three-course meal beneath a canopy of twinkling lights and accompanied by a live singer. Around 9 p.m., the guests layered abayas over their jeans and silk blouses, clasped their Hermes purses and headed for the gate.

After Alanood gave me a warm hug, I asked whether she would attend another World Cup match.

“Maybe,” she said. “My friend might get a skybox.”

Qataris now enjoy some of the highest average incomes in the world, but much of their wealth is hidden in private estates, rarely seen by outsiders.

Erin Schaff contributed reporting.

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